Review: Twin Farms

Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe? Pleasant country roads curve and swerve their way through verdant Vermont forests, with the foothills of the Green Mountains undulating into the distance. This 300-acre resort in Southern Vermont more than delivers its promise of an idyllic countryside setting.

What's the backstory? The vision of legendary—and infamous—founder Thurston Twigg-Smith, Twin Farms is one of New England's finest expressions of hospitality. With only 20 rooms, each and every guest is made to feel unbelievably special.

Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book? The rooms are a mix of contemporary and classic New England influences: birch trees, flannels, and antique-looking furniture punctuated with whimsical amenities and art. Don't be surprised if there's a Cy Twombly or Jasper Johns hanging next to your bed. The coffee station comes complete with Kona coffee, Harney & Sons tea, and a French press. But these eclectic interiors only serve as a backdrop to the ravishing views from each and every one of the 20 guest rooms and suites. Next time, we're going to request a stay in the Log Cabin, an actual 19th-century cabin relocated to the farm (and updated with luxurious furniture and modern plumbing, naturally).

Is there a charge for Wi-Fi? Luckily the price tag includes Wi-Fi.

Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? One of only a handful of Relais & Chateaux properties in New England, the food here is superb, with chef Nathan Rich putting together a highly seasonal menu drawn from Vermont produce, meats, and dairy. Make sure to ask the sommelier for his suggested wine pairings—the cellar here is an astounding 150,000 bottles strong, with everything from established Bordeaux favorites to obscure Pacific Northwest organic wines. Your experience is completely custom—whether you want to have your dinner seated in the dining room, at the Chef's Table with a front-row view to the action, or by candlelight outdoors.

And the service? Legendary. No request is too big or small for Twin Farms. They can help orchestrate a once-in-a-lifetime wedding proposal, or they can also make sure your room is stocked with Heady Topper, Vermont's hardest-to-buy cult classic craft beer.

What type of travelers will you find here? These are the folks who like to buy L.L. Bean Boots but never actually get them dirty. There's a level of luxury and pampering to Twin Farms that you won't find anywhere else in New England.

What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene? It's more of a “check in and stay on the property until you leave” kind of place, which isn't difficult to do. Surrounded by 300 acres of serene birch forests, there are plenty of walking trails, meadows, and lands to explore. Twin Farms even has its own private ski hill, so you can get some turns in without even waiting in a line.

Is there anything you'd change? The experience is almost too lovely, if such a thing exists. The gorgeous scenery, the museum-worthy art collection, the sublime food, the staff's make-it-happen attitude. The only downside to Twin Farms is having to check out.

Any other hotel features worth noting? There's definitely the pampered, glamorous side to Twin Farms, but those who love getting their heart rate up will find plenty of activities, as well. There's a house tennis court, several fantastic golf courses within driving distance, an on-site pond for swims and canoe rides, and all the best that the Green Mountains have to offer by way of hiking and biking is just minutes from the property.

Bottom line: Worth it? Why? It's a bucket list splurge for sure, but once you do the math, figuring that the price includes your food and activities, it starts to seem more reasonable. Ultimately, it's worth every penny.