The moment I first set foot along the craggy coast of Monterosso al Mare, the westernmost village of the Cinque Terre, I knew I had discovered a unique paradise. It was early October 2007 and far off in the distance, the clifftop villages belonging to this unparalleled Ligurian landscape beckoned with their vivid colors, illuminated by the late summer light. After a few days spent devouring fried anchovies, focaccia, pesto, and breathtaking views, I also quickly understood why Cinque Terre, a UNESCO site since 1997, attracted tourists en masse.
It was only after meeting and marrying a native of this land, and therefore becoming a perpetual guest, that I learned the soulful secrets that day trippers aren’t privy to. I soon understood why these thousand-year-old villages set upon precipitous cliffs paint such a pretty picture. The characteristic manmade terraces called poggi were built to cultivate vineyards and olives, two of the region’s specialties. By a stroke of luck, local administration forbade construction in the 1960s, contributing to the preservation of these one-of-a-kind lands.
Unlike the posh port town of Portofino made popular by well-heeled jet setters in the 1950s, or fishing village-turned-Italian Riviera resort town Santa Margherita, Cinque Terre remained a secret to the masses until the mid 1990s. Prior to that, it was fellow Italians and thrill-seeking German and Swiss hikers that first mingled with the local fishermen and farmers. When American travel writer Rick Steves became enchanted with these remote lands, once only accessible by sea or by train, Cinque Terre landed on everyone’s bucket list.
With the maze of village streets off limits to cars aside from an occasional taxi, Cinque Terre is best reached via train and explored on foot or by boat. Hop aboard a ferry and hop off at any of the five villages at your leisure. These sea shuttles even venture as far as Portovenere, just outside the Cinque Terre. Sunset boat tours are another stellar way to discover Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Hiking between these villages carved into the cliffs is an adventurous affair, boasting some of the most dazzling views of the Italian Riviera. I recommend sticking to the marked paths and heeding any notices of path closures. The iconic and least difficult trail Via dell'Amore or “Path of Love” connecting Manarola and Riomaggiore recently reopened, but only to guided tours due to crowd control. It’s no secret that Cinque Terre is battling over-tourism, with upwards of three million tourists stomping the fragile grounds annually.
To enjoy these soulful lands more authentically, avoid the selfie-stick-toting day trippers and visit in the off-season. The villages wake up from their winter slumber just before the Easter holidays and remain open for business until late October. A favorable Mediterranean climate makes early spring an ideal time to visit, with less congested hiking paths leading to swoon-worthy photo ops, shorter waits for top dining haunts, and even a chance to score a spot in the sun. While most of the private Monterosso beach clubs don’t open until May and close in September, the public stretches of pebbled beach invite sun worshippers all year round. Just bring a beach towel and snorkeling gear. Come July and August, there’s no better spot to hide from the hoards of visitors than beneath a parasol. Be sure to book ahead or on the morning of. The late summer is equally enchanting after schools reopen and family tourism tapers.
Vernazza and Manarola are often considered the prima donnas of Cinque Terre, but Monterosso al Mare wins for personality, with the most to offer visitors from where to bed down to local wining and family-run dining. Sleeping in a B&B or family-run hotel is undoubtedly the best way to live like a local. High above the clamor of Monterosso’s village life, Casa di Andrea oozes with charm and garden views. Centrally located 3-star Hotel la Colonnina boasts renovated rooms and a roof deck while 4-star Porto Roca high on the bluff offers the most sophisticated lodging, with an infinity pool and refined restaurant included. For a real dose of rural life dotted by olive trees and local produce, Agriturismo Missanega reachable by car, is the place to call home. The only 5-star address, Grand Hotel Portovenere isn’t exactly part of the Cinque Terre, but it’s close enough.
On the food front, family-run gastronomic Ristorante Miky has been impressing its guests since 1980, while offshoot La Cantina di Miky serves up innovative local fare in a more casual seaside setting. In Monterosso’s old town, Il Casello concocts savory Ligurian specialties the likes of stuffed anchovies and trofie al pesto. There’s no more scenic spot for dinner or an aperitivo than Torre Aurora named for the 16th-century tower it inhabits. A few steps away, Ristorante L'Ancora della Tortuga vies for the views with its sweeping outdoor terrace and cliffside dining. Follow the classical music to Enoteca da Eliseo for a sampling of regional wines or head to Enoteca Internazionale and pair vino with gourmet bruschetta at the village’s oldest wine shop. If you’re feeling adventurous, just west of Monterosso, Casino in the year-round town of Levanto makes for a perfect dinner or drink stop, and can be reached by train or on foot. For some of the best coastline views, brave the two-hour hike.
Each of the five villages merits a wander through the historic center and up along the tangle of paths that lead to clandestine eateries. In Vernazza, it’s Ittiturismo Pirasca overlooking the variegated landscape, and long-standing Ristorante Belforte nestled into the bluff that offers both appetizing views and dishes. In Corniglia, the smallest of the hilltop villages and also the least visited, Ittiturismo SP4488 makes the trek up the nearly 400 steps well worth it. A fast favorite for anyone who discovers this cliffside haunt, Trattoria dal Billy is reason enough to plot a trip to Manarola. When it comes to fine dining Ligurian style, the casually chic Rio Bistrot in Riomaggiore certainly doesn’t disappoint.
Regardless of when you decide to venture to Cinque Terre, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the authenticity and charm of these five animated villages. Just give yourself more than three days to enjoy morning cappuccinos, cannoli (the Ligurian variety), long ambles, and maybe even a game of bocce with the locals.
